Tuesday 20.7.
After breakfast we crossed the small but really amazing Litchfield NP and booked our camping site on the Safari Camp near the Wangi Falls. Having done that, we explored the western part of Litchfield NP. At Bamboo creek we visited a former tin mine and at Walker creek we had lunch and wanted to go for a swim. But on the way quite a big snake crossed our path so we decided to leave that. Instead we drove to Greenant Creek. From there we walked around an hour trough rainforest like vegetation up to the Tjaetaba Falls. There is a nice pool just above the falls where you can swim safely, so we enjoyed the refreshing cool water after the climb in the burning sun. Almost back at the car park, another snake crossed our path. It became somehow a bit scary, as we had no idea whether they were venomous or not. Our next stop was at the Wangi Falls where we wanted to have a swim. Usually that’s not a problem, but this year there were some “salties” there which didn’t go back after the wet season, so it was closed for swimming. We didn’t’ spot them, but saw a few beautiful birds such as Kingfishers and lots of cockatoos. After dinner we saw a few wallabies hopping around on the campground.
Wednesday 21.7.
On our way to the eastern part of Litchfield we stopped at the Tolmer Falls (only photos from the lookout, no swimming) and the Tabletop Swamp, a small lake with lots of birds and trees standing in the middle of the lake. Our final stop was at the Magnetic Termite Mounds. The tallest are about 5 metres high and most of them are orientated in north-south direction in order to obtain a stable temperature in the mounds. The termites heat themselves up in the morning on the east side of the mounds and go then back into the mounds. Quite fascinating. After noon, we checked in at the Big 4 caravan park in Batchelor and had an easy afternoon with reading, washing and just relaxing. After our welcome drink which we were offered, we watched the daily bird feeding in the park. Droves of wild birds from the area come to the park twice a day and get fed. Quite a noisy issue, but worth to watch it. Tonight’s dinner was once again meet from the grill.
Thursday 22.7.
We left early and drove a last time into Litchfield. At Buley Rockholes we had breakfast and then a relaxing bath in the numerous small pools with clear and not too cold water. We could have stayed all day there, but towards noon it got crowded and we still had some hours to drive, so we finally left. We drove south and after Pine Creek we turned of and drove on an unsealed and sometimes very bumpy 22 km long dirt and gravel road to the Umbrawarra Gorge. It’s a remote but beautiful gorge and we hoped it wouldn’t be so overcrowded as certain parts of Litchield NP. It took us more than an hour on the very corrugated road with lots of riverbeds (luckily all of them dry) to cross. We found easily a free site on the very simple campground with only one toilet and no further facilities. At least it was very cheap and cost us only 6 dollars. With a few beers and chips we walked into the gorge and stopped on a small sandy beach in the gorge on a big waterhole. During the dry season the river slowly ceases but the waterholes remain almost till the beginning of the next wet season. However, we enjoyed our drinks in this scenic surrounding and walked then back, collecting some firewood. There were suddenly lots of clouds and a strong wind, so that we were a bit afraid whether it would rain or not, but it didn’t and only a few hours later not a single cloud but lots of stars were to see on the sky. We sat all evening on our fire which kept most of the mosquitos away.
Friday 23.7.
We slept in once again and went then into the gorge for swimming. We first walked a bit further than the day before, but finally ended up again at that little beach we already were the evening before and had it this time almost for us alone. There was only a big lizard sitting on a stone in the water, sunbathing, but that was not a reason for not enjoying the cool, refreshing water of the Umbrawarra creek. Driving back again on this bumpy road took us again more than an hour. In the middle of the afternoon we arrived in Katherine and just catched the last free powered site on the Big 4 campground. We went to town to buy some food and enjoyed it to be once a bit earlier on the campground, having a dip in the pool and reading in our travel guides and soon it was time for dinner.
Saturday 24.7.
Our first point of interest today was the local market. But, to our disappointment, it was really small with only a few possibilities to buy some food and things you definitely don’t need, so we soon left after having bought at least something for lunch. Only a couple of minutes later we were already relaxing in Katherine’s hot springs in the 32 degrees warm water. That was a real pleasure and it wasn’t even crowded although it was Saturday. Later on we drove a bit further south to the Cuta Cuta Caves. Because tourists used to break of stalaktites and stalagmites as souvenirs, there are only guided tours these days. But that didn’t really matter because we so learnt a lot about the cave and its animals (mostly bats and snakes) as well as about the different rock formations inside and the influence of the annual wet season. Probably the best thing of this cave tour was that we got out of the sun, into the shady and cool underground for a while. Back on the same campground in Katherine where we stayed the night before we enjoyed a dip into the refreshing pool and the nice atmosphere on the campground.
Sunday 25.7.
Although it was Sunday, we had an early start since we wanted to stay at the Katherine Gorge campground in the Nitmiluk NP. It wasn’t possible to make a prebooking, so we had to be there early. Doing the check-in at 8AM we got to know that the gorge was closed. The ranger told us then that they had spotted a saltie and therefore the gorge was closesd for swimming and canoeing. We were not very happy to hear that, as we had booked a canoe for the afternoon. On a whim we decided to do a boat cruise instead through the first two gorges instead. But before there was some time left which we used for a short loop walk with a great view into the gorge. The cruise through the gorge was amazing and with these hot temperatures it was nice to have a chilly wind around. We spotted several freshies (freshwater crocodiles) but not the saltie. We just saw the rangers preparing the trap. Back on the campground we went for swimming in the pool as the gorge was closed. With the dusk, the first wallabies started walking and jumping around between the caravans. We could even pet them – they weren’t shy at all and very keen on toast bread. Even a joey (young roo/wallaby) dared to came close to our camper. It was a memorable evening with the wild animals on this peaceful and remote campground.
Monday 26.7.
Today’s first stop was at Katherine to stock and fuel up. We couldn’t resist to take another short dip in the hot springs before we drove back north again. At Edith Falls we had our lunch break and went for a short walk because from the picnic area near the car park you couldn’t see much of the falls. Although it was a steep climb and that in the burning sun, it was worth the effort. Now it was time to drive as there were another 300 km ahead into Kakadu NP where we finally stayed in Cooinda at the Kakadu Lodge. The air was really sticky and the mozzies obviously present. So we soon went to bed after dinner, knowing that we had to get up at 5.30AM the next morning.
Tuesday 27.7.
It was definitely the earliest start on our journey. 5.30 AM we had to get up because a quarter past six we got picked up from the shuttle bus which drove us to the near Yellow water. We joined the first boat cruise this day and slowly moved over the water before sunrise. The atmosphere was just unique with droves of birds and changing colours every minute. The surface of the water was so plain that everything was reflecting on it. And of course there were also lots of salties, the reason why you mustn’t swim in this area. After a peaceful cruise into the day, we enjoyed back at Kakadu Lodge a delicious breakfast from the buffet which gave as the needed energy for the rest of the day. Shortly after 10 AM we continued our trip, further into Kakadu NP and soon stopped at the Aboriginal Culture Centre where we got a good insight into the history and the present life of the local Aborignes tribes. Out next stop was the Nourlangie Rock. On a short walk we admired lots of Aboriginal rock art. Some more and even more impressive rock art we saw at Ubirr in the afternoon before we stopped on a campground in Jabiru where we had some time to relax and cool down in the pool before dinner and a new battle against the mosquitos.
Unfortunately, it's soon time to say good bye to Australia. We will be back in Darwin on Thursday and then fly to Melbourne for 2 days, then to Singapore for 3 days and finally to Dubai for another 3 days. On the 6th of August we will return to Switzerland. More news and photos probably not before then.
Cheers so far
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